Before arriving in Phnom Penh, it was described to us as a sleepy city for being semi-quiet considering it’s the most populated city in all of Cambodia. When we arrived, it was way more busy than Siem Reap, but it did not have the same city feel as you would get in Manhatten, New York or Seoul, South Korea.
We arrived at our accomodations, Royal Palace Hotel, around 8:30pm after a scary 5.5hr taxi ride and near death. thankfully, the room was really clean and definitely a step up from our stay at the hostel in Siem Reap.
The next morning, we were picked up by a tuk tuk to get transported to the Blazing Trails office to take our ATV tour. If you look at Tripadvisor Cambodia, the number 1 recommended thing to do in Phnom Penh is this ATV tour hosted by Blazing Trails. They got RAVE reviews and the tour we were interested in was 1/2 a day and included seeing the country side on ATV and the killing fields.
On our way to the office, there was an Asian guy in our tuk tuk who was from New York City. Turns out he was a dentist on vacation to cambodia to take pictures because taking traveling pictures was his hobby. He told us that he had 2 other partners taking care of his practice at home so that is how he was able to afford the time to leave on vacation to South East Asia for 2 weeks! *mental note: become a dentist or marry a dentist with his own practice. it’s mad $$!!*
Anyways, when we arrived at the Blazing Trails HQ, we were greated kindly by our tour guide, James! We paid $55 each for a half-day tour and were almost ready to be off on the ATV portion of the tour until… matty’s ATV broke down half way off the driveway. lol! Well, no problem because instead of wasting our time, they took us to the Killing fields which was about a 3 minute drive/10 minute walk away so they could fix the ATV.
The killing fields: A Brief History
After the Cambodian civil war, the Khmer Rouge regime committed a mass genoicide on all the people they thought to be apart of the former government or foreign government. They estimated that around 2.2 million people died from this genoicide and around 1.3 million deaths were caused by execution.
I think personally, it was just shocking to know how recent this genocide took place. This took place from 1975-1979… a time when my cousins were born!! Man, i’m so lucky my family grew up in america!
Anyways, the thing with the killing fields is that when you walk in, it’s covered in green green grass everywhere. However, the ground is full of hills and valleys where all the the mass graves are. they say that to this day, when there are heavy rains… teeth, bones, and clothes surface because there were so many bodies buried underneath.


Clothes still half-buried in the ground of the killing fields
One of the most depressing things i witnessed on my trip to cambodia was not what i saw of the dead, but actually what i saw of the living. My friends and i took a detour towards the back of the killing fields where it was seperated by a fence. On the other side of the fence was a little house and 5 children. As we were walking by, i heard them say a word that i could not understand. Then my friend Tanya said, “oh.. picture? I think they’re saying picture.” The kids responded, ” yes yes!!” So tanya, matty, and i took out our cameras to take a picture of them posing by the fence. After the picture was taken, in sync they said robotically, “show me, show me!” I walk over to the fence to show them the picture while thinking “oh, these kids must think they’re so cute!” Once they saw the picture i had taken, in an instant they change the tone of their voices into a sad, “give me money. give me money.”

The kids posing for my picture. See their smiles?

Tanya took this picture just as i showed them their picture on my camera. their faces changed from smiles.. to begging. :’(
I was so taken aback, I didn’t really know what to do. We started walking away conflicted. If we don’t give them money, we feel/look like jerks. If we do give them money, it just encourages this type of behavior to make them think that begging will get them what they want. Well, we didn’t give them money and they ended up following us on the other side of the fence for like 5 minutes until they realized we wouldn’t give them anything. Matty summed it up for us: our emotions went from “that’s cute” to “that’s weird” to “that’s depressing”.
We continued on with our tour of the killing fields and after finishing in 45 minutes with out an audio guide (an audio guide will take 90 minutes), we headed back to go to the ATVs. I was in a really depressed state and a little disturbed by the children. I read on trip advisor that during the ATV tour, we would see many country side children and wave to them on our way around town. However, with THAT experience at the killing fields i felt like, ”I DON’T WANT TO SEE ANY CHILDREN!”
Well, we went on our way, and the ATVs turned my depressed state into a better one. I wasn’t sure how long the actual ATV riding would be because when i went on an ATV tour in the Philipines, the actual ATV riding only lasted about 30 minutes. However, this ATV ride ended up being a full 2hrs of riding! We went all over different trails, roads, through rice patty fields, little communities… everywhere!


Also, the countryside kids did come out of their homes, but innocently just wanted to wave or high-five us as we passed their homes not asking for money or anything. This reinstated my belief in the purity of children for the time being, and that ended up being one of the highlights of the ATV ride!
In the middle of ATV-ing, we stopped at this random snack stand to buy some water. The lady who owned the snack stand had a mango tree, and our guide, James, told us to take a look if we’ve never seen a mango tree before! matty and i were admiring it because mango is our FAVORITE fruit in the world. the old lady came over and watched us stare at her tree. She asked us where we were from and said i was “really really beautiful” tehehe. then out of nowhere… she tells our ATV guide that we could each have a mango! omg, i was so shocked… i reached in my bag to give her money for the mango, but she refused and said “it’s for you! freee!” wow.. soooooo nice.

a baby unripened mango!! so cute… i want to eat it!
We finished 2hrs later and it was definitely worth the $55 dollars we paid. i totally understand why it was rated #1 on tripadvisor because it was such a fun trip, and we really did get to see a lot of the country side. After the ATV, we told our Tuk Tuk driver to stay with us to finish our sight seeing day in phnom penh for an extra $15. He took us to a place for lunch, the Royal palace, and the genoicide museum AKA Prison S-21.
The Royal palace was really extravagent, the pagodas were brightly colored… and it is known for the “silver pagoda”. Why is it silver pagoda? because the floor is lined with silver tiles….. wow.. beougie! Unfortunately, no pictures were allowed. We blew through the Royal palace because we wanted to have enough time for the S-21 prison.

The Royal palace was full of pagodas that were so vibrantly colored!!
The S-21 Prison was actually a high school that was transformed into a prison… and boy it looked sad. The feel of the prison and the killing fields was different because at the killing fields, it was full of trees and green grass but the S-21 prison really looked and felt like a prison. It was lined with barbed wire, surrounded by city buildings, felt cold and lifeless. I personally felt that the prison was more depressing than the killing fields, probably because I didn’t use the audio guide at the killing fields and the prison did a good job of having detailed descriptions next to all the things you saw there.
After looking at all the rooms, and reading more about the history and stories of the people who went through the prison, I started getting a headache. Reading about so much sadness literally made my head hurt. I’m definitely glad i went and experienced a part of Cambodian history, but at the same time it’s definitely not somewhere i would want to go to twice.

Prison block B of the S-21 Prison.

One of the holding cells for interrogation.
Something i thought was really interesting was that 3 of the leaders who were in charge of conducting the S-21 Prison are still alive today. Apparently they were RECENTLY put on trial and charged for genocide in 2009. wow!!
Yup! So my friends and I only spent one full day in Phnom Penh. But in that one day, we were able to see all the things we really wanted to see in the city. Maybe we could have spent another day and took our time with the royal palace, but once you’ve seen one pagoda, you’ve seen them all! haha… sorta. anyways, the day was definitely a roller coaster of emotions from fun highs to depressing lows. It made me really self-reflect on my own life and so thankful for everything I have. I would say this might have been my favorite or at least the most memorable day of the entire trip.
Anyways, next up: the next and final stretch of my cambodia trip… SIHANOUKVILLE! aka.. beach town.